Reverance

A potential dam. The cave where prospective chiefs are brought to be received by massive pythons. The site where chiefs are crowned.  The ceremony to kick off construction keeps getting postponed by forces outside human control (eg flash flooding at the site).

A road. Trees, reportedly inhabited by spirits, that refuse to be chopped down. The man who tried, died.

Today I heard some stories at the office about conflicts between development projects (roads, dams, etc) and local populations, from a researcher who's just come back from the field. The theme is when local traditions, sacred places, ancestors, and spirits are not acknowledged and treated with respect, bad things happen (including mysterious deaths). The researcher (a man from northern Uganda) said he has always heard about these kinds of things but has always discounted them. After the stories he's heard, he's not sure he should.

ln practical terms it doesn't matter where you are or what you call it--superstition, tradition, backward beliefs, witchcraft, spirituality--it seeks to maintain reverence for everything that we don't and can't fully understand (and that's a lot), and necessitates that in our eagerness to impose our understanding of things on the world we leave space for respecting places, resources, and people. And space to learn (and preserve) what we don't yet understand, before it is lost to us. Space for us to attend to more than our immediate physical needs/desires. To maintain our sense of wonder and awe and recognise that our place in this vast universe is really small.

There is always more to learn. We shouldn't discount something just because it doesn't appear to be scientific or because it doesn't fit into the model we learned. In the US people used to believe that chicken soup was good for a cold. Then we thought we got smart and labeled that a "old wives tale." Then we decided to actually research it, and guess what? Chicken soup is good for a cold. Just because it's ancient knowledge that wasn't informed by modern day physics and biology and textbooks, doesn't mean it's not valid.

Slow down. Look. Listen. Proceed with caution. Because as I always say, good intentions are not good enough. There are lots of great benefits to roads and dams, but that doesn't mean there are only benefits, or that those benefits mean anyone can just plop them down anywhere at any time.

(P.S. This doesn't just apply to development or to government, it applies to you. It's up to you to figure out how.... Slow down. Look. Listen. What can you learn today?)

HappY!

I catch people humming or singing to themselves ALL THE TIME ... unfortunately, they usually aren't really displaying great musical talent, ha! But they are truly enjoying themselves and that always makes me smile.

Pharell Williams' song "Happy" is a global pop hit it seems, and people all over the world are making their own versions of the upbeat music video. So, since these videos keep popping up on social media, I'm going to share with you these glimpses into cities all over Africa. The "Happy" video below from Brazzaville is thus far one of my favourites. I haven't seen one from Uganda yet, which is actually surprising. Kampala is a 24-hour city that loves to have a good time! I think I've been out till after 5am more often in 7 weeks in Kampala than in years anywhere else.

Follow this link to see the full playlist on YouTube of Happy video remakes produced all over Africa. And of course from there, you can tour the world!

TIA

Downtown Kampala, from the top of the Gadaffi Tower

"This is Africa."
I'm not sure when this phrase came into use. It's usually used by non-Africans in response to a situation they wouldn't expect in their home countries. It's kind of like saying "that's how it is, get used to it." Power outages. A new package of batteries that have all been drained of power. Roads that are more pot hole than road. Waiting ages for over-packed public mini-buses to depart. Waiting ages for anything.

What I've realised is that the phrase is never used in a positive context. All of the things I just described are certainly a part of daily life for a large part of this large continent, but they do not alone define Africa. There are a lot of things that I encounter here as part of daily life in Africa that are actually fun, or amusing, or strangely interesting, or fascinating, or awesome. And sometimes those things that people find frustrating are great lessons in questioning what our expectations are, why they are such, and if they actually benefit us.

So, I'm re-activating this blog (it's been over a year since my last post, and they have been very infrequent for much longer) in a project to reclaim and redefine the phrase "This is Africa." I didn't move here because I love it when the power unexpectedly goes out for anywhere from 5 minutes to 5(+) hours, or that it goes out every time it rains, or because I prefer my roads gouged and bumpy, or because I've always wanted to hear someone say on the phone "I'm coming" and have no idea what-so-ever when they will show up. More importantly--very, very importantly--I did not move here so I could "fix" it. Sure there are problems, everywhere in the world there are problems. I think that I have something to offer to help people live happier, healthier lives, but I believed that to be true in Colorado too, and that's what I want for my life no matter where I am.

I moved here because there is beauty and laughter and creativity and a whole lifestyle which has benefits that, for me, outweigh the frustrations. We all have frustrations, no matter where we live in the world. Africa is more than frustrations, war, poverty, and chaos! Let me show you.

A New Peacebuilding Tool

How much did you pay for your cell phone?
How much do you spend each month on the plan to make calls, send texts, and use data?
If you knew that $12.50 could help promote sustained peace in a county at a strategic point in transitioning from a long civil war, would you give it?
If you're on a tight budget (like me) would you sacrifice a meal out at a restaurant, or a cheap new shirt, or a couple of beers, to be able to make that donation? How much is peace in a tiny African country worth?

As many of you know, I did field work for my thesis in Rwanda. The histories of Rwanda and Burundi are tightly knit, and therefore so is their present. In fact, just as no man is an island, so is no county isolated. The politics of each country in the Great Lakes region of Africa reflect and impose upon each other, and those processes and relationships extend even further to the Great Lakes of America. How so? Because we in America (and Europe and Asia) are completely dependent on technology, and a great number of the resources we utilize to produce that technology come out of central Africa. But I don't actually want to pursue this argument. I recognize that there is something in human nature that compels us to want to get something for that which we give. But must we get a 'clean' iphone in exchange for supporting peace in Burundi? Not that I don't want responsible corporations, but is that the only compelling argument? Does the security of fellow human beings hold any weight? Is it worth $12.50? That's certainly a lot less than we might spend on a military or humanitarian operation should violence break out.... But enough with the guilt, what am I on about?

Healing and Rebuilding Our Communities is a trauma healing project which is pursuing an off-shoot project in response to the current elections taking place in Burundi. Since this is the first elections to take place in Burundi since a peace accord was signed in 2008, it is a volatile time in which many fear people will resort to violence to ensure whatever outcome they think is best. Many people feel that who is in office directly affects their daily existence, maybe even their lives, so a lot is at stake. As a result, things can get out of hand pretty quickly, rumors in particular being a fiendish culprit. So, after assessing what areas might be most prone to violence, HROC followed up the original workshop with trainings directly about community building in order to promote networks of support and to influence good communication. Along these lines, they are also training observers in each of the selected areas who will communicate with one another and with HROC 'headquarters' with cell phones. Having this rapid communication available to them makes it possible to stay informed about what is (or isn't) happening on the ground, which observers can also relay to their communities. How often have you felt comforted just KNOWING the details of what is happening? Communication is so important to sustaining healthy relationships!

There's one problem: the observers need cell phones! Few people in Burundi have the disposable income to purchase a cell phone, even when it only costs $12.50. Fortunately, lots of people with access to an extra $12.50 often find themselves wondering how it's possible to make a difference in a country like, say...Burundi, with the lowest per capita GDP in the world and which has essentially experienced decades of civil war. This is a fantastic opportunity! $12.50 puts the power in the hands of one observer, and his/her community, to actively build peace through good communication in a time of fear and questioning. We need to support more projects which use alternatives to guns, bombs and threats; which actively utilize peaceful means to peaceful ends and a more holistic concept of security.

You can learn more about Burundi, the elections, and this project from Andrew and Rich.
You can join the cause on facebook and make donations here.

Elections and Democracy in E Africa

I've linked to a video from the Carter Center entitled "Africa: Elections Aren't Enough" featuring Paul Collier (author of "The Bottom Billion") and other Carter Center staff. The foundational idea is that elections in and of themselves do not a democracy make. It's a poignant talk at a time when so many African countries are approaching elections. I'll highlight a few in the region where I pay the most attention:

Sudan, April 2010--the first free elections in 24 years. The civil war between the north and south, which continued for over two decades, made holding any semblance of a democratic election impossible. The current president, Omar al Bashir, came into power through a coup d'état in 1989 (and, I should note, is currently wanted by the International Criminal Court for Crimes of War and Crimes against Humanity in Darfur). In the south, this election in many ways is considered a precursor to the vote that is planned for January 2011 in which Southern Sudan will decide if it should become an independent state. Sudan is the largest country in Africa, with a population of 40 million, the majority of which are illiterate and live in rural areas. In addition, conflict is still prominent in the eastern Darfur state. As such, logistical issues are a huge concern. Furthermore, the International Crises Group has just published a report outlining the ways the ruling National Congress Party has rigged the election.

Burundi, May-July 2010--the first elections since a peace accord was signed in April 2009 between the ruling government, the National Council for the Defense of Democracy (CNDD), and the opposition National Liberation Forces (FNL). Burundi had been in Civil War since 1993. The current President Pierre Nkurunziza was elected in 2005 with the first elections since the start of the civil war. Human Rights Watch has produced reports documenting politically motivated killings, assaults, arrests, and other violence intended to intimidate and suppress opposing parties. Recent reports from IRIN identify party youth leagues, made up largely of demobilised combatants, as tools of the ruling party to intimidate voters.
In post-conflict states, elections are pivotal. After a peace agreement was signed in Burundi, people were relieved, but still hesitant about the how long-standing that peace would be. Most people say they will "wait and see" how the elections go: if it is pulled off peacefully and justly then they can feel confident that their country has really made a change for the better, but most worry that there will be new violence and manipulation. To explore the host of issues a country at such a turning point faces, see the recent Peacebuilding Commission report for Burundi.

Rwanda, August 2010--the second election since the Rwandese Patriotic Front took power after ending the genocide in 1994. The first election was in 2003, when then President Paul Kagame was elected with 95% of the vote (it should be noted that political organising was outlawed until shortly before the election was held). The constitution allows for the President to serve two, seven year terms, and most anticipate that Kagame, who has held the office of president since removing Pasteur Bizimungu in 2000, will be re-elected. However, the evidence that the election is being manipulated in order to maintain power is piling up. The opposition is being prevented from registering and meeting; accusations of revisionism and/or denial of the the 1994 genocide and divisionism serve as piercing attacks against the opposition which by law make them vulnerable to arrest; and members of opposition parties are publicly beaten.
Although Kagame has done much to rebuild Rwanda and maintain peace, his human rights record leaves much to be desired. He could stand among the great leaders in Africa if he were to follow in the footsteps of Mandela and step down when his time is up, but I fear he may choose the path of Mugabe, Museveni and so many others who entrench themselves in power and refuse to acknowledge that any other person may be capable of performing as president.

Uganda, 2011--Yoweri Museveni took power in 1985 through a coup d'état. He was later elected president in 1996, again in 2001, and again in 2006 (in the first multiparty election, and after changing the constitution to allow him to run for a third term). The elections have been contested with accusations of rigging, voter intimidation, and suppression of party activities. HRW documents elected officials who were charged with election abuses but never brought to justice and are still serving, while opposition candidates are arrested on trumped up charges. Conflicts over the upcoming elections are already being reported, and the coalition of opposition parties have hinted they would boycott the elections if changes are not made.
The three months I spent in Uganda were littered with stories of past elections, none of them were positive. Foreigners said that violence was inevitable (speaking from their own experience of riots and bombings) and that it was best to leave the country if you could. A young man in the eastern mountains described being kidnapped, beaten, and imprisoned until he agreed to never work for an opposition party again. Everyone expressed that the only reason President Museveni continued to win elections was through threat and manipulation, and because the international community continued to recognise him as a legitimate leader (although the Obama administration may be looking to change that).

You may recall that the last elections in this region were in Kenya in 2007, the population contested the results, in which the incumbent President Kibaki was declared winner, which led to widespread violence and killings that became ethnically charged in some areas (particularly the Rift Valley Province). A negotiated power-sharing agreement established the office of Prime Minister for the leading opposition, Odinga. The next elections in 2012 are anticipated with trepidation.

Elections are powerful, emotionally charged, and complex regardless of the country they take place in. They can be used as a tool for suppression and domination just as easily as they can be used for the stimulation of human rights and the freedom to voice your needs and desires. I believe it is important for the international community (which means not just governments but you and me) to hold each state accountable and to support good practices. It is also important to remain informed about the processes and voices in other countries in order to better understand your own and better identify good practices, not to mention defining your own needs and desires.

I would love to hear your thoughts or questions on these issues, if you have a response please post a comment on my blog!

Give One. Get One

Some of you know that my new project in Uganda is to get a group of "total orphans" (here that means they've lost both parents) set up to go to school through an organization I was recently connected with here (Teso Widows Development Initiative, or TEWIDI). But that's another blog. As I'm researching all the possibilities, wanting to develop the technological exposure and education of the next generation, my mind was brought back to the One Laptop Per Child vision. It's a very exciting opportunity, bringing not just a laptop, but a whole new look at education and creativity and indeed the world to some very isolated and deprived (in many ways) children. It's certainly something I'd like to look into for the future of the school. But in the mean-time, you have an awesome oppotunity to donate one of these laptops to a child in one of the countries participating in the program at this still early stage. If you opt for the "Give One. Get One." choice, you recieve a laptop and a child in Afghanistan, Rwanda, Haiti, Cambodia, or Mongolia will recieve one. I know it's a little late in the season for gift buying (the whole idea of Christmas is just starting to sink in for me here on the equator, where it feels more like July than December), but it's certainly not too late, and the Give One. Get One. campaign runs till Dec.31. So check it out, even if you can't buy one today it's really interesting stuff--and worth knowing about to consider in the future.

Movin' Out

That's right, I'm moving out of the US and into Africa! After a brief stint in NY/DC, I should arrive in Uganda on Nov.16, where I will be for nearly 3 months helping to do some research related to the mental health of a displaced group (Acholi) from the north of Uganda. Hopefully I will also get to do some rafting at the source of the Nile, trekking on some 16,000+ ft. volcanic peaks, see some of the biggest waterfalls in the world, and maybe even spy on a mountain gorilla (and lions and giraffes and rhinos, oh my!). Of course that all requires cash, and since I will be a student again come Feb, that is one thing I'm short on. That's ok though, because I'll be a student in fabulously beautiful Cape Town! where I'll busy braai-ing and kloofing and diving (did you just hear Bob Barker announce that in your head? I did!). But only when I'm not busy studying, of course.

Really though, I'm very excited at the prospect of living in Cape Town and getting to know it apart from the tourist track. It's an incredibly dynamic city and there's a lot to learn about development, conflict, education, race relations, the role of nonprofits, and so much more.

So here's to the unknown, to finding my groove, to international living, and to being a positive force in society! Cheers!