I'm sure you are watching things fall apart in Democratic Republic of Congo. I am anxiously eying the news daily for new reports, as my plans to do an internship in Goma slowly fall apart with the country. I don't have much to add except on a note of emphasis, as my supervisor for my recent long paper recently advised me. The media continues to perpetuate 'ethnic tension' as the root of all evil here and I'd just like to add a touch of reality to this representation. "Hutu" and "Tutsi" get tossed around regularly in the media as if it explains all this inhumane violence in a post-Rwandan-genocide world, but I must say that I think these words are masks, an attempt to legitmate actions which actually have nothing to do with ethnic identity or security. What it really comes down is control of resources, and the only reason these conflicts continue is becuase it is so damn profitable for those who continue to fight.
Although the companies buying cassiterite (tin ore), gold and coltan (along with other minerals) from the DRC may claim ingnorance--they don't know where the materials are coming from or who extracted them, etc, etc--it is inexcusable. They not only implicate themselves in atrocious violence against hundreds of thousands of human beings by not finding out who they are buying from or where they got it, but they implicate you and I further down that glorious chain of globalisation. By purchasing these minerals that have been illegally extracted by various politcal causes they fund the purchase of weapons and power that make it possible for Laurent Nkunda's CNDP to send the national military fleeing into the bush behind thousands of terrified refugees. I don't have information now on what companies are purchasing minerals from DRC, and I'm now sure how accesible it is, but if I can find it I will let you know so you can boycott them and thier products. Meanwhile, keep your own eyes and ears open! (And check out The Better World Handbook for practical ways to lead a more socially responsible life)
And what of the politicians? The DRC blames Rwanda for supporting Nkunda's forces--who claim to be protecting Tutsi's--while Rwanda criticises the DRC for not rooting out Hutu forces responsible for the genocide in Rwanda. Who will step in to say stop all this useless fingerpointing and just deal with the issues?! The UN? While Ban ki Moon wanders about asking Kabila and Kagami to come together, Nkunda is asking for direct negotiations (and apparently being ignored), and the UN's MUNOC is begging for reinforcement to enact their mandate to "enforce peace" (also seemingly being ignored). Fighting ceased on Wednesday (29 Oct) when Nkunda declared a ceasefire just outside of Goma. How long it lasts is entirely dependant on whether the politicians can get their acts together and face the problem honestly and responsibly.
As the U.S. is on the verge of a critical election, the people of DRC are on the verge of utter destruction. Who we choose to lead our country will not just impact the U.S., it will impact Africa and the DRC: who do you think will make a stand for the homeless and traumatised men, women and children lost in the no-mans-land between peace and war, safety and death?
03 November 2008
30 September 2008
Gloria Mae Martinez (Mawmaw)
She loved to laugh—I mean she must have had a sense of humor to name all of her 5 children names that start with G! She loved life and adventure, glitz and glamor. She was very strong and overcame great obstacles throughout her life. She suffered great tragedy, more than anyone should have to endure, and I’m certain her heartbreak caused the slow deterioration of her body. She was a woman of intensity, and intense was her love. She spoiled me rotten as a child (to the great irritation of my elder siblings), and although she stopped dressing me up in frilly pink frocks I think she only very recently began to realize I was no longer a child. Babies were her joy in life, perhaps because they represent a life of wonder and frivolity. I take great pleasure that she now can pursue such an existence herself, free from all that binds in this world (like that pesky cholesterol), reunified with the sons she lost so young. Efrain Martinez was undoubtedly the love of her life, and he was the grounding foundation of consistency in the second half of her life. The name by which I know him, Papacita, epitomizes much of their relationship for me. After I began learning Spanish in school I learned that this name was technically incorrect in every way (including its feminine form), but by that point it was his name, he was Papacita, so I couldn’t just start calling him abuelito. But I never remember him correcting me as a child, and although he may have tried to correct Mawmaw in the beginning he obviously lost that battle. The language they shared was unique to the two of them, always a compromise, sometimes a point of contention, and an endless source of amusement for me (sitting in the back seat of the car giggling, swaying back and forth with the perpetual swerve of the steering wheel—just like in old movies!). Papacita was everything that she needed, what would any of us done without him?
She can be proud of the role she has played in the legacy of this family. To follow the trail of her journey in life would be a fascinating journey indeed, worthy of the Hollywood she so enjoyed. She has lain tracks around the world, I myself have followed some of the tracks she laid before me to places like Thailand and Japan, and perhaps one day I will pursue paths she walked elsewhere in places such as Peru. As a child I took for granted the snippets of stories from these far away places,but now as a women in the 21st century I hold great respect for what an accomplishment such explorations actually were for her. Any difficulties or dangers I may face are nothing compared to those of a woman in her day: most obviously for the technology available today, not least for the expectations in the middle of the 20th century of what she should have been doing with her days. If Mawmaw could wander in the far off reaches of the globe alone, why shouldn't I? No one can doubt that she was a determined woman, and she has leant great strength to the generations that have followed her, we—the three generations that grieve her loss now, and those that are to come—owe a great debt of gratitude for the paths she laid before us. Just as she held great appreciation for the lives of her ancestors, all that we have achieved is linked to everything she achieved in her own life. I for one have learned a great deal from her, from having the determination to do whatever I damn well please, to learning not to allow bitterness for the horrors of this world to take hold of my life.
She has loved greatly and she lost greatly, but she went on to love more and more: just as she learned we can never go back, we must not regret the past or things we cannot change, rather take hold of the memories and seeds of wisdom gained and invest them in the relationships and opportunities before us. I love her deeply and will miss her wholly, I will seek adventure and spoil children in her name, and I will eat strawberry pie with lots and lots of whip cream in celebration of her.
28 May 2008
more on xenophobia in South Africa (and beyond)
While physical attacks have calmed the country is still in a bit of chaos after the few weeks of extreme violence against foreigners in South Africa. There has been a great deal of discussion about why the violent outbreak occured, and what we can do about it. The government's immediate concern is to deal with some 30,000 diplaced people who fled their homes. Although some communities have asked for their return, from what I hear they are not willing to go back. Until now the refugees have been sheltered in police stations, churches, and community centres, but they are overwhelmed and ill-equipped to deal with a mass amount of people for more than a few days. The current solution has been to set up 7 refugee camps around the city. Some people argue that this is an improper response becuase hasty set up of camps will likely result in poor sanitation and health risks. I also wonder if it won't simply reinforce the divide between the 'local' and the 'foriegner'. On the other hand, some suggest that if incoming refugees were placed in camps to begin with, they would not have set up in informal settlements (townships) and created the competition that influenced the tensions between South Africans and foreigners.
The blame has been heavy on the government: if they had a policy in place to deal with refugees, then poor South Africans would not feel they have to compete with poor refugees for very limited resources. It is noteworthy that the presence of refugees in South Africa is a recent phenomena--they were not allowed in under aparthied, and so they only began coming here in the mid 1990's (initially Mozambiquans during their civil war). Since the South African constitution is so liberal, indeed the 'motto' of Cape Town is "A Home for All", and because it has been so stable and prosperous, South Africa became something of a mecca for refugees thorughout Africa which is why there is now such a large population of refugees from Mozambique, Angola, Somalia, the DRC, and elsewhere. Another major cause are economic factors like an unemployment rate over 25%, which consists primarily of youth with a secondary education--excluded from low wage labor jobs that immigrants are given as well as from highly skilled positions they do not have the training for. Certainly other factors (liquor, cell phones, etc) contributed to the mob mentally and the escalation and spread of the violence.
So the question is what to do next? How do we repair and build good relations between the many "us" and "them" divides that exist here? Leadership is blatantly lacking, President Thabo Mbeki left the country and went on with his planned schedule throughout the crises with very little comment, not even when the image of a man being burnt alive appeared on the front page of the newspaper. He is also criticised for his "quiet diplomacy" in Zimbabwe in the midst of their own crises after elections, declaring that "there is no crises". The 1,000,000% inflation, food shortage, and political attacks there have resulted in a mass exodus into South Africa of about 3 million Zimbabweans, obviously putting further strain on the resources and simmering tensions. Clear and positive leadership (as Mandela demostrated during and after aparthied) is a neccesary ingredient to peace building. Hand outs to refugees have to be carefully thought through--while there is an immediate need to keep them fed and warm and safe, there is also a concern that the local poor will again become angered when they themselves are cold and hungry. The solutions which are needed, primarily policy related, will not be easy or happen quickly, I would just hope that short cuts are made with short term solutions becoming installed long term solutions which will not solve the issues at hand.
The blame has been heavy on the government: if they had a policy in place to deal with refugees, then poor South Africans would not feel they have to compete with poor refugees for very limited resources. It is noteworthy that the presence of refugees in South Africa is a recent phenomena--they were not allowed in under aparthied, and so they only began coming here in the mid 1990's (initially Mozambiquans during their civil war). Since the South African constitution is so liberal, indeed the 'motto' of Cape Town is "A Home for All", and because it has been so stable and prosperous, South Africa became something of a mecca for refugees thorughout Africa which is why there is now such a large population of refugees from Mozambique, Angola, Somalia, the DRC, and elsewhere. Another major cause are economic factors like an unemployment rate over 25%, which consists primarily of youth with a secondary education--excluded from low wage labor jobs that immigrants are given as well as from highly skilled positions they do not have the training for. Certainly other factors (liquor, cell phones, etc) contributed to the mob mentally and the escalation and spread of the violence.
So the question is what to do next? How do we repair and build good relations between the many "us" and "them" divides that exist here? Leadership is blatantly lacking, President Thabo Mbeki left the country and went on with his planned schedule throughout the crises with very little comment, not even when the image of a man being burnt alive appeared on the front page of the newspaper. He is also criticised for his "quiet diplomacy" in Zimbabwe in the midst of their own crises after elections, declaring that "there is no crises". The 1,000,000% inflation, food shortage, and political attacks there have resulted in a mass exodus into South Africa of about 3 million Zimbabweans, obviously putting further strain on the resources and simmering tensions. Clear and positive leadership (as Mandela demostrated during and after aparthied) is a neccesary ingredient to peace building. Hand outs to refugees have to be carefully thought through--while there is an immediate need to keep them fed and warm and safe, there is also a concern that the local poor will again become angered when they themselves are cold and hungry. The solutions which are needed, primarily policy related, will not be easy or happen quickly, I would just hope that short cuts are made with short term solutions becoming installed long term solutions which will not solve the issues at hand.
23 May 2008
xenophobia?
Funny how a word you almost never hear at home can so suddenly become a part of your daily vocabulary. The divisive culture of aparthied continues to reek havic in South Africa, since I've come to Cape Town I've heard, seen, or been part of discussions surrounding xenophobia on a regular basis. But nearly two weeks ago the situation erupted in Johannesburg and since has spread, in just the past day or so, to Cape Town. Foreigners, more specifically those from Somolia, Mozambique, and Zimbabwe (for the most part), are being attacked and the country is quickly going into crises. So far 42 people have been killed, some 15,000 are displaced, and about 500 people have been arrested.
A friend from Congo, who came to Cape Town to escape violence, death, and fear, now finds himself unable to leave his apartment, caught in flashbacks of the trauma he tried to escape. Zimbabweans are returning home to hyperinflation, food-shortages, fear and violence related to the recent disputed elections (and with rumours flying about a possible assassination attempt on the opposition leader--Tsvangirai-- who should be winning the run-off elections on June 27, stability is not soon coming) in fear for their lives. Somali shops and homes are looted and burnt to the ground. The violence is centered in the townships, so (Somalies in particular) are escaping into city centres to seek protection. The mining industry depends on migrant labour, but the migrant workers are not showing up, (in one mine that employs 80% Mozambiquans production has been shut down completley) so the economy will quickly feel the brunt of the effects. And the police force, which underwent reconstruction in 2005, is not capable of dealing with the riots and violence, so the military has been called in for assitance. With some Western countries issuing travel warnings, the tourist industry is already being hurt (I'd like to note that it's not tourists or rich white people that are being attacked here--it's other Africans whom South Africans blame for taking away thier jobs and homes, a sentiment which could be compared to Americans blaming Mexicans for the same. It all comes down to a question of scapegoating doesn't it? Many South Africans--both black and white--were living under better conditions during aparthied (I am not condonind aparthied, just stating a condition of existence), becuase the current government has failed to achieve or successfully implement much of it's promises. When it comes down to it, it's easier to take out your frustration and desperation on a migrant worker who showed up with nothing and now is doing better than yourself, than to take it out on the president. I am not an expert on the situation, this is simply my own understanding and observations from my conversations and reading. There is a lot of history and politics playing into this that I am not fully knowledgable of as well).
In a world that is more interconnected than we realize, the implications of the situation are broad. In Southern Africa, people are returning to unstable situations, as well as threatening reactive violence (attacking South Africans in Mozambique). Foreign investment in South Africa will (has) dwindled, and South Africa's economy plays a huge role through out the continent.
There is still much to learn about what is going on, but I feel compelled to keep people updated with events in my own piece of the world that you either won't hear in your local news, or you won't hear very throuroughly or accurately. Don't worry about me, as I said, being white and not living in a township leaves me fairly far removed from any immediate physical xenophobic threat.
A friend from Congo, who came to Cape Town to escape violence, death, and fear, now finds himself unable to leave his apartment, caught in flashbacks of the trauma he tried to escape. Zimbabweans are returning home to hyperinflation, food-shortages, fear and violence related to the recent disputed elections (and with rumours flying about a possible assassination attempt on the opposition leader--Tsvangirai-- who should be winning the run-off elections on June 27, stability is not soon coming) in fear for their lives. Somali shops and homes are looted and burnt to the ground. The violence is centered in the townships, so (Somalies in particular) are escaping into city centres to seek protection. The mining industry depends on migrant labour, but the migrant workers are not showing up, (in one mine that employs 80% Mozambiquans production has been shut down completley) so the economy will quickly feel the brunt of the effects. And the police force, which underwent reconstruction in 2005, is not capable of dealing with the riots and violence, so the military has been called in for assitance. With some Western countries issuing travel warnings, the tourist industry is already being hurt (I'd like to note that it's not tourists or rich white people that are being attacked here--it's other Africans whom South Africans blame for taking away thier jobs and homes, a sentiment which could be compared to Americans blaming Mexicans for the same. It all comes down to a question of scapegoating doesn't it? Many South Africans--both black and white--were living under better conditions during aparthied (I am not condonind aparthied, just stating a condition of existence), becuase the current government has failed to achieve or successfully implement much of it's promises. When it comes down to it, it's easier to take out your frustration and desperation on a migrant worker who showed up with nothing and now is doing better than yourself, than to take it out on the president. I am not an expert on the situation, this is simply my own understanding and observations from my conversations and reading. There is a lot of history and politics playing into this that I am not fully knowledgable of as well).
In a world that is more interconnected than we realize, the implications of the situation are broad. In Southern Africa, people are returning to unstable situations, as well as threatening reactive violence (attacking South Africans in Mozambique). Foreign investment in South Africa will (has) dwindled, and South Africa's economy plays a huge role through out the continent.
There is still much to learn about what is going on, but I feel compelled to keep people updated with events in my own piece of the world that you either won't hear in your local news, or you won't hear very throuroughly or accurately. Don't worry about me, as I said, being white and not living in a township leaves me fairly far removed from any immediate physical xenophobic threat.
17 May 2008
It's been too long!
It's hard to believe that it's May! How have five months gone by and I've not posted a single adventure or politically pertinent story? Well, much has happened! Let's see, I've:
*rafted the source of the Nile in Jinja, Uganda (splitting my lip open in the process--had to walk around with tape on my face for a week, and I still have a scare (and a bump, scar tissue?)
*moved to Cape Town! where I've:
*lived in a backpackers for 3 weeks and then crashed on the couch of a friend I met in the backpackers for another 3 weeks until I managed to find a place to live in Cape Town
*meanwhile I started my Masters in Anthropology at the University of Cape Town, which started a quite a bit of confusion and was initially a bit overwhelming, but I'm loving it
*moved into a fabulous house in Cape Town with chill house-mates (thanks gumtree!), will have to post pics soon
*spent many days lounging on the beach and jumping in (and immediately back out) of the icy Atlantic Ocean
*hiked all over the incredible mountain parks in the area--and still many more to explore!
*swam in a reservoir of iodine red water in Silvermine National Park (something to do with the lead content I'm told)
*got mugged by a guy wielding a piece of KFC as a weapon--luckily only lost my cell phone!
*drove for the first time on the left side of the road, in a car that was not only a manual shift (not a problem) but also a manual choke (a little unnerving initially since I had never even heard of such a thing, but it was fine :)
*got attacked by an out-of-control wave on the beach--my reader is still traumatized and my bag still has sand in it, but we survived
*attended my first rugby match (Cape Town Stormers vs New Zealand Waratahs), also got drenched by the rain falling horizontally, and it was a draw!
*am developing a research question for my MA thesis, something to do with the impact of aid on development, if you have any connections to international humanitarian organizations in Eastern Africa (Sudan, Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, Burundi) let me know!
That surely is not an exhaustive list, but it's the things that immediately spring to mind. Now that I'm a bit more settled I will attempt to post blogs more frequently! More adventures are soon to come as I am planning a short road trip to Namibia the beginning of June and shortly thereafter will head to Cyprus (!) for my friends wedding. Cape Town is an incredibly beautiful, interesting, and challenging city to be in, and I'm ecstatic to have the next 2 years to explore it, it already feels like home!
*rafted the source of the Nile in Jinja, Uganda (splitting my lip open in the process--had to walk around with tape on my face for a week, and I still have a scare (and a bump, scar tissue?)
*moved to Cape Town! where I've:
*lived in a backpackers for 3 weeks and then crashed on the couch of a friend I met in the backpackers for another 3 weeks until I managed to find a place to live in Cape Town
*meanwhile I started my Masters in Anthropology at the University of Cape Town, which started a quite a bit of confusion and was initially a bit overwhelming, but I'm loving it
*moved into a fabulous house in Cape Town with chill house-mates (thanks gumtree!), will have to post pics soon
*spent many days lounging on the beach and jumping in (and immediately back out) of the icy Atlantic Ocean
*hiked all over the incredible mountain parks in the area--and still many more to explore!
*swam in a reservoir of iodine red water in Silvermine National Park (something to do with the lead content I'm told)
*got mugged by a guy wielding a piece of KFC as a weapon--luckily only lost my cell phone!
*drove for the first time on the left side of the road, in a car that was not only a manual shift (not a problem) but also a manual choke (a little unnerving initially since I had never even heard of such a thing, but it was fine :)
*got attacked by an out-of-control wave on the beach--my reader is still traumatized and my bag still has sand in it, but we survived
*attended my first rugby match (Cape Town Stormers vs New Zealand Waratahs), also got drenched by the rain falling horizontally, and it was a draw!
*am developing a research question for my MA thesis, something to do with the impact of aid on development, if you have any connections to international humanitarian organizations in Eastern Africa (Sudan, Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, Burundi) let me know!
That surely is not an exhaustive list, but it's the things that immediately spring to mind. Now that I'm a bit more settled I will attempt to post blogs more frequently! More adventures are soon to come as I am planning a short road trip to Namibia the beginning of June and shortly thereafter will head to Cyprus (!) for my friends wedding. Cape Town is an incredibly beautiful, interesting, and challenging city to be in, and I'm ecstatic to have the next 2 years to explore it, it already feels like home!
27 January 2008
A wedding, part 2
The story of a Ugandan wedding continued...
In the following weeks:
A marriage here only happens if EVERYONE plays a role. "Wedding Planning Meetings" were held frequently. At these meetings committees were formed (eg transportation, kitchen, budgets, etc), duties assigned, and contributions requested. We had to establish who had vehicles that could be used, who could help cook, who we could borrow plates and chairs from, who would make the dresses, where we could get decorations, and who would watch the bicycles to make sure they weren't stolen during the ceremony. And of course everyone is asked for contributions. One couple may offer to purchase a crate of soda for the reception. Someone else may offer to pay for fuel for a vehicle. Another may simply give 5,000 Uganda shillings (which is less than $3 USD, but here that's a lot of money). While it was torture to sit through these meetings, I appreciate how much of a community effort it is to put together such a celebration. The old adage "It takes a village..." is actually quite literal here. Everyone is referred to in familial terms (mama, aunt, sister, uncle, brother, father...).
quick explanatory diversion: I was in a village with some friends drinking malwa and chatting with the locals. The old man next to me decided he needed to explain--"in Uganda everyone is family. all the old men in the village are your fathers, the old women are your mothers [. . . . ] so now I am your what? Your father. You are my what? my daughter." I said "ok, papa Simon, give me the what? the straw." The malwa is in a big pot in the middle and everyone drinks from long straws.
This theme extends into nearly every aspect of life.
January 26,2008:
Here's a glimpse at life in "Africa Time"--the wedding was scheduled to start at 10 am. I arrived at about 12. The ceremony began about 1:00. The program had us eating at 6:00, so if things went according to schedule (meaning 3 hours behind schedule) we wouldn't be eating until 9:00pm. This did not give me pleasure!
The ceremony began with singing worship songs. After a while the groom began his march down the aisle with his peg boy and best man, accompanied by a choir. This march down the aisle lasted nearly 30 minutes! It was a very, very slow process. It was followed by more singing, and then the bride's march with her bridal party (quite large: 2 flower girls, a maid of honor, a matron of honor, and 6 maids.), they were a bit quicker than the groom, only took 20 minutes! (Here's just a little snippet of how wonderful it was...)
The two exchanged vows (same as the traditional vows in the west) and then there was a sermon. By the time it was all said and done it was 5:00.
The reception was taking place just outside, so we shuffled around and waited while the bridal party
drove off for picture taking. The MC began seating everyone in their proper places (there were 3 tents and everyone is arranged similarly to how they are for the wedding) about 6:00 and got things started until the bride and groom arrived. They fed each other their first meal, cut the cake, gave gifts to parents and other prominent attendees, received gifts from the guests, and then started announcing for various sections to go eat (food was seriously my main concern at this point since I hadn't eaten since 10:00 and had only had 1 meal the previous day). Unfortunately for me I got distracted by talking to people and by the time I stood in line to get food, it was gone! At first I wanted to cry, but then realized that I had been hungry for so long that I wasn't even really hungry anymore. My friend scrounged up some scraps for me (thank goodness for chapati!) and it was fine--this is when the fun really starts anyway--dancing! It didn't last long though, once it gets dark people are ready to head home, traveling in the dark on bad roads is not really fun. Thus ended the excitement that was James and Norah's wedding (and begins the excitement that will be James and Norah's marriage). I'm glad I was a part of it, and hope no one ever expects me to march down the aisle at the speed of a sleepy snail!
In the following weeks:
A marriage here only happens if EVERYONE plays a role. "Wedding Planning Meetings" were held frequently. At these meetings committees were formed (eg transportation, kitchen, budgets, etc), duties assigned, and contributions requested. We had to establish who had vehicles that could be used, who could help cook, who we could borrow plates and chairs from, who would make the dresses, where we could get decorations, and who would watch the bicycles to make sure they weren't stolen during the ceremony. And of course everyone is asked for contributions. One couple may offer to purchase a crate of soda for the reception. Someone else may offer to pay for fuel for a vehicle. Another may simply give 5,000 Uganda shillings (which is less than $3 USD, but here that's a lot of money). While it was torture to sit through these meetings, I appreciate how much of a community effort it is to put together such a celebration. The old adage "It takes a village..." is actually quite literal here. Everyone is referred to in familial terms (mama, aunt, sister, uncle, brother, father...).
quick explanatory diversion: I was in a village with some friends drinking malwa and chatting with the locals. The old man next to me decided he needed to explain--"in Uganda everyone is family. all the old men in the village are your fathers, the old women are your mothers [. . . . ] so now I am your what? Your father. You are my what? my daughter." I said "ok, papa Simon, give me the what? the straw." The malwa is in a big pot in the middle and everyone drinks from long straws.
This theme extends into nearly every aspect of life.
January 26,2008:
Here's a glimpse at life in "Africa Time"--the wedding was scheduled to start at 10 am. I arrived at about 12. The ceremony began about 1:00. The program had us eating at 6:00, so if things went according to schedule (meaning 3 hours behind schedule) we wouldn't be eating until 9:00pm. This did not give me pleasure!
The ceremony began with singing worship songs. After a while the groom began his march down the aisle with his peg boy and best man, accompanied by a choir. This march down the aisle lasted nearly 30 minutes! It was a very, very slow process. It was followed by more singing, and then the bride's march with her bridal party (quite large: 2 flower girls, a maid of honor, a matron of honor, and 6 maids.), they were a bit quicker than the groom, only took 20 minutes! (Here's just a little snippet of how wonderful it was...)
The two exchanged vows (same as the traditional vows in the west) and then there was a sermon. By the time it was all said and done it was 5:00.
The reception was taking place just outside, so we shuffled around and waited while the bridal party
drove off for picture taking. The MC began seating everyone in their proper places (there were 3 tents and everyone is arranged similarly to how they are for the wedding) about 6:00 and got things started until the bride and groom arrived. They fed each other their first meal, cut the cake, gave gifts to parents and other prominent attendees, received gifts from the guests, and then started announcing for various sections to go eat (food was seriously my main concern at this point since I hadn't eaten since 10:00 and had only had 1 meal the previous day). Unfortunately for me I got distracted by talking to people and by the time I stood in line to get food, it was gone! At first I wanted to cry, but then realized that I had been hungry for so long that I wasn't even really hungry anymore. My friend scrounged up some scraps for me (thank goodness for chapati!) and it was fine--this is when the fun really starts anyway--dancing! It didn't last long though, once it gets dark people are ready to head home, traveling in the dark on bad roads is not really fun. Thus ended the excitement that was James and Norah's wedding (and begins the excitement that will be James and Norah's marriage). I'm glad I was a part of it, and hope no one ever expects me to march down the aisle at the speed of a sleepy snail!
A wedding, part 1
Though my friends James and Norah have officially been married for several weeks, the wedding ceremony, thus allowing them to behave as a married couple, has just taken place yesterday. The various ceremonies leading up to this celebratory day have taken place over the past 6 weeks. Their courtship before this was only several months, and was completely secret from everyone (well, except for a few select persons, *awink*) until about 7 weeks ago. I will describe the whole process in 2 blogs, because I'm sure most of you reading this as emial aren't prepared to read a whole book! So let's start from the beginning:
December 16: Introductions
Spend a day in a village in Uganda and you will be distinctly aware that introductions (like greetings) are of up most importance. Any formal or semi-formal function will involve the host and their family introducing themselves, asking the heads of guest households to introduce their family members, and often key guests will be asked to say something (I've lost track of how many "speeches" I've had to make). This process could potentially take hours, depending on the event, how many guests there are, and how long-winded they are allowed to be.
For this occasion the primary focus is on introducing the community to the person you intend to marry. First our numerous party arrived at the church of the groom's head pastor, Elim Pentecostal Church. After worship and prayers, the pastor announced ever so coyly that a certain pastor whom everyone had been praying would find a wife has come to make an announcement. He called James and his escorts to the front, James said a few words about finding a wife, and then he was asked to identify the woman he has chosen. Music was played and the entourage marched (think wedding march not military march) back and forth through the rows of the church (so as not to be presumptuous) until he finally reached Nor
ah, whom he invited to join him. The church erupted into the "YI-YI-YI-Yiiiiii" exclamations of celebration from the woman as the couple marched to the front with now both of their entourages. James introduced his bride-to-be, Norah was asked to say a few words, and then we begged forgiveness as our whole group flooded out of the church, into our vehicles, and on to the next set of introductions.
As we arrived at Norah's church seats were cleared in the front rows for the guests and we were welcomed and asked to introduce ourselves. This time it was Norah's pastor who announced that something special would take place this morning. Norah was called forward with her entourage. It was her turn to march around the church (keep in mind that these churches are about the size of a living room, so no one gets lost in the crowd!) to identify the man she would marry. After she picked him out and they marched to the front, she introduced him, he said a few words, and again we rushed out.
Last we went to the church that James pastors in a nearby village. Here in this mud hut all parties began to relax, and while the formalities were the same, the atmosphere was much cooler. (This, by the way, was my first introduction to Oderai Village, which is where I spent Christmas and is one of my favorite places to be in Uganda).
December 23: Family Introductions and Dowry Negotiations
James and Norah were looking to make things as simple as possible. If they had their way, they would have had their wedding ceremony the same day as these introductions. Technically at this point they would be married anyway, but socially a marriage ceremony must happen before they can move in together. But Norah's parents weren't going to let that happen today. Nonetheless there was significant hubbub, which involved transporting something like 22 people in 2 vehicles from Soroti (where I'm living) to a village about an hour south called Bukedia. When we arrived we had to declare the purpose of our visit and obtain the permission of the family to enter their property. After a bit of taunting and negotiating, a ribbon was cut and we were welcomed in. A tent had been set up with chairs and we all piled in. Luckily Norah's family had already gathered so we didn't have to wait long. The MC announced the program (nothing here happens without a detailed schedule of events, even a birthday party!).
We began with, that's right, introductions, but I'm hanging with the right crowd because we managed to get through them in about 15 minutes. The chairperson of the wedding party (if you haven't caught on yet they are very formal with their titles and programs and everything) was asked to explain why they were present. There was bit of banter. Then the MC said that the girl they have come for is on h
er way and if we would be patient, her helicopter would land shortly and we could identify her as the intended bride. We waited. We bribed (the groomsmen came prepared with numerous envelopes containing 1000 shilling bills). Music started playing and 3 young girls marched into the tent and knelt. The MC said "please, is the girl you've come for here?" Some of James' entourage bemusedly pondered the girls and inspected them closely, then announced, "these are but children! The girl we want is not here! Please let me give them money for transport so they can go back to school!" They are handed envelopes and leave.
Again, the MC says the girl is on her way, "maybe she has been delayed by a meeting with the president, please be patient." We wait. We bribe. The music plays and three women march i
nto the tent and kneel. "Please, identify which is the girl you are here to take away from us." The entourage inspects the three and spends some time in discussion, but finally decides the bride is not among these girls, so they offer money for transport and send them away. Again we wait ("I think I hear her helicopter now!") and in march 6 women. They are inspected. There are discussions. Finally they say yes, the girl we want is here, but please first let us give transport so the rest of these girls can go home." Norah is then asked by her family to identify the man in the crowd that she intends to marry. She marches with her entourage and selects James.
Next they have to negotiate the dowry. Norah's family compiles a list and passes it on to James' family. If I remember correctly it consisted of 6 bulls, 4 goats, maybe 10 chickens, and 200,000 Ugandan shillings. While this is a costly list, it is actually a relatively small request, as Norah is considered a valuable member of the family (having a university education). But obviously these things were discussed prior to today, and informally agreed upon. James' family accepted the bride price, and they discussed when the transfer of property would take place and when the wedding would be held.
to be continued...
(sorry my pictures are less than stellar. My skin color draws more than enough attention as it is, so I try to be as inconspicuous as possible in my picture taking--or forgo it completely--to avoid creating more of a spectacle)
December 16: Introductions
Spend a day in a village in Uganda and you will be distinctly aware that introductions (like greetings) are of up most importance. Any formal or semi-formal function will involve the host and their family introducing themselves, asking the heads of guest households to introduce their family members, and often key guests will be asked to say something (I've lost track of how many "speeches" I've had to make). This process could potentially take hours, depending on the event, how many guests there are, and how long-winded they are allowed to be.
For this occasion the primary focus is on introducing the community to the person you intend to marry. First our numerous party arrived at the church of the groom's head pastor, Elim Pentecostal Church. After worship and prayers, the pastor announced ever so coyly that a certain pastor whom everyone had been praying would find a wife has come to make an announcement. He called James and his escorts to the front, James said a few words about finding a wife, and then he was asked to identify the woman he has chosen. Music was played and the entourage marched (think wedding march not military march) back and forth through the rows of the church (so as not to be presumptuous) until he finally reached Nor
ah, whom he invited to join him. The church erupted into the "YI-YI-YI-Yiiiiii" exclamations of celebration from the woman as the couple marched to the front with now both of their entourages. James introduced his bride-to-be, Norah was asked to say a few words, and then we begged forgiveness as our whole group flooded out of the church, into our vehicles, and on to the next set of introductions.As we arrived at Norah's church seats were cleared in the front rows for the guests and we were welcomed and asked to introduce ourselves. This time it was Norah's pastor who announced that something special would take place this morning. Norah was called forward with her entourage. It was her turn to march around the church (keep in mind that these churches are about the size of a living room, so no one gets lost in the crowd!) to identify the man she would marry. After she picked him out and they marched to the front, she introduced him, he said a few words, and again we rushed out.
Last we went to the church that James pastors in a nearby village. Here in this mud hut all parties began to relax, and while the formalities were the same, the atmosphere was much cooler. (This, by the way, was my first introduction to Oderai Village, which is where I spent Christmas and is one of my favorite places to be in Uganda).
December 23: Family Introductions and Dowry Negotiations
James and Norah were looking to make things as simple as possible. If they had their way, they would have had their wedding ceremony the same day as these introductions. Technically at this point they would be married anyway, but socially a marriage ceremony must happen before they can move in together. But Norah's parents weren't going to let that happen today. Nonetheless there was significant hubbub, which involved transporting something like 22 people in 2 vehicles from Soroti (where I'm living) to a village about an hour south called Bukedia. When we arrived we had to declare the purpose of our visit and obtain the permission of the family to enter their property. After a bit of taunting and negotiating, a ribbon was cut and we were welcomed in. A tent had been set up with chairs and we all piled in. Luckily Norah's family had already gathered so we didn't have to wait long. The MC announced the program (nothing here happens without a detailed schedule of events, even a birthday party!).
We began with, that's right, introductions, but I'm hanging with the right crowd because we managed to get through them in about 15 minutes. The chairperson of the wedding party (if you haven't caught on yet they are very formal with their titles and programs and everything) was asked to explain why they were present. There was bit of banter. Then the MC said that the girl they have come for is on h
er way and if we would be patient, her helicopter would land shortly and we could identify her as the intended bride. We waited. We bribed (the groomsmen came prepared with numerous envelopes containing 1000 shilling bills). Music started playing and 3 young girls marched into the tent and knelt. The MC said "please, is the girl you've come for here?" Some of James' entourage bemusedly pondered the girls and inspected them closely, then announced, "these are but children! The girl we want is not here! Please let me give them money for transport so they can go back to school!" They are handed envelopes and leave.Again, the MC says the girl is on her way, "maybe she has been delayed by a meeting with the president, please be patient." We wait. We bribe. The music plays and three women march i
nto the tent and kneel. "Please, identify which is the girl you are here to take away from us." The entourage inspects the three and spends some time in discussion, but finally decides the bride is not among these girls, so they offer money for transport and send them away. Again we wait ("I think I hear her helicopter now!") and in march 6 women. They are inspected. There are discussions. Finally they say yes, the girl we want is here, but please first let us give transport so the rest of these girls can go home." Norah is then asked by her family to identify the man in the crowd that she intends to marry. She marches with her entourage and selects James.Next they have to negotiate the dowry. Norah's family compiles a list and passes it on to James' family. If I remember correctly it consisted of 6 bulls, 4 goats, maybe 10 chickens, and 200,000 Ugandan shillings. While this is a costly list, it is actually a relatively small request, as Norah is considered a valuable member of the family (having a university education). But obviously these things were discussed prior to today, and informally agreed upon. James' family accepted the bride price, and they discussed when the transfer of property would take place and when the wedding would be held.
to be continued...
(sorry my pictures are less than stellar. My skin color draws more than enough attention as it is, so I try to be as inconspicuous as possible in my picture taking--or forgo it completely--to avoid creating more of a spectacle)
23 January 2008
Celsius versus Fahrenheit
I'm very happy that I have an oven in my current abode (I've made some kick-ass chocolate cake, which I hope I can replicate as I'm supposed to bake lots and lots for my friends wedding this weekend!). I'm not always the brightest bulb though. Last night after baking sweet potato ginger muffins (delicious, by the way, recipe to follow) I suddenly realized that the highest temperature setting on the oven was 200 not because it is a wimpy oven, but because it is 200 CELSIUS, not Fahrenheit as I had assumed in my American head. wow. And what's really amazing is that every time I've baked I've started the oven on "max" and watched whatever was baking carefully since I didn't really know what "max" was, and had to turn it down because the top was going to burn before the inside cooked. Still the concept of a different scale of measurement did not occur to me. Luckily I've managed to save all my baked goodies from being scorched (as well as continue to impress my British house mate who is usually quite reluctant about my various random concoctions). Anyway, enjoy these muffins!
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp ground ginger *
½ tsp ground cinnamon
optional: ¼ tsp ground cardamom or nutmeg (both are highly recommended!)
¾ C light brown sugar, firmly packed
¾ C mashed baked sweet potato, cooled**
½ C fat-free milk, at room temp.
2 large eggs, at room temp., lightly beaten
3 tsp canola oil
1 ½ tsp vanilla
¼ - 1/3 C finely chopped crystallized ginger*
In separate bowl mix sweet potato, milk, eggs, oil and vanilla.
Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add wet mixture just to combine.
Stir in crystallized ginger.
Lightly oil a tray of 12 muffin cups.
Spoon batter into muffin cups.
Bake at 375 for 15-20 minutes (test with toothpick).
Cool for 5 minutes before removing from cups.
Ginger Sweet Potato Muffins
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp ground ginger *
½ tsp ground cinnamon
optional: ¼ tsp ground cardamom or nutmeg (both are highly recommended!)
¾ C light brown sugar, firmly packed
¾ C mashed baked sweet potato, cooled**
½ C fat-free milk, at room temp.
2 large eggs, at room temp., lightly beaten
3 tsp canola oil
1 ½ tsp vanilla
¼ - 1/3 C finely chopped crystallized ginger*
In separate bowl mix sweet potato, milk, eggs, oil and vanilla.
Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add wet mixture just to combine.
Stir in crystallized ginger.
Lightly oil a tray of 12 muffin cups.
Spoon batter into muffin cups.
Bake at 375 for 15-20 minutes (test with toothpick).
Cool for 5 minutes before removing from cups.
13 January 2008
A New Year
The sun has set on 2007. It was a busy year for me: living half of it in Korea teaching english to wee ones; then escaping to scuba dive and float down rivers in Thailand, trek the moutains of Burma, and explore ancient temples in Cambodia; then traveling back home to visit friends and family in Colorado, California, Louisiana, New York and D.C.; followed by an adventure in getting to know Uganda.
This friendly, intriguing and diverse country, which while wraught with many problems is also pregnant with possibility, is where I celebrated the dawn of a new year. I found it very ironic that Christmas in Oderai village didn't feel like Christmas becuase there was absolutely nothing western or "christmasy" around, and then New Year's I didn't really feel as though I was in Africa becuase everything was so posh and quite familiar as a New Years Eve celebration. I was in K'la, and stayed with a friend who was house-sitting. This house was really REALLY nice, and I'm talking by American standards nice. We cooked pasta for dinner, drank wine, had champagne, went to watch fireworks on the roof of a very posh apartment building, then went for dancing and drinks at Bubbles, an Irish pub that is very popular among the expat crowd. About 5 am I took a special hire (what we would call a taxi, something that I never take) back to my posh abode and slept on an real mattress. That morning I slept in and then spent most of the day lounging on a leather sofa watching movies on DSTV and eating Brie. This is not something I've thought of doing or had the opportunity to do since coming to Africa, so it doesn't reflect my experience here at all. It was indeed odd.
So anyway, here we are in 2008. After reflecting on my past year, I feel quite satisfied with what I accomplished. As I look forward to this next year I'm filled with anticipation. In less than a month I'll be in Cape Town! Getting ready to start Grad School! I'm eager to explore new places and make a new home for myself, create new relatioships, be challenged, and see what South Africa has waiting for me! I hope wherever you are and whatever you're doing, you are also excited about the possiblities to come, are dreaming of all the things you can do, and are ready to make things happen!
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